All Roads Lead to Roma
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Children and Rome ...

Italians love kids; however, Rome may not be the ideal place to bring children under seven for numerous reasons.  Rome is more of a grown-ups and teenagers' city.  Unless you are staying with friends or relatives, it is best that you do not bring a baby to Rome.  Loose cobblestones, narrow or no sidewalks, narrow streets, crowds of people, horrendous traffic congestion, Vespas and Mopeds, bicycles and skateboarders darting here and there make getting around Rome very difficult for pushing carriages or strollers, or even carrying or walking small children.  Also, many of the streets are still ancient cobblestone, which makes it quite difficult to navigate with a stroller.  It can be done, but in some areas, you need a lot of determination.  Another problem is the lack of clean public restrooms and/or changing areas in which to perform diaper-changing duties.  In all my visits, I have rarely seen tourists with children, strollers, and the like, at least at the major attractions.

It is best that if you plan to travel with children under the age of seven, you reserve accommodations in a hotel somewhere in the old center that is about equal distance from any direction you wish to go; that way, you can go back to the hotel several times daily to "freshen up" the young one(s) as well as yourself and perhaps take a nap between sightseeing, shopping, or eating.  There are a myriad of hotels with all different price ranges to choose from in the center of Rome (excluding, perhaps, the via Veneto area, which tends to be very expensive).  Also, if you travel with children, it is best to avoid the summer months because of the heat and tremendous crowds.  It is better to come in early spring or late autumn when both the heat and crowds are more tolerable.  Also, most hotels can arrange to provide a babysitter for you if you want to go that route.

Special facilities for children are few and far between and playing in the streets is impossible in most areas due to horrific traffic zooming in every direction.  But, for those over seven, there are places to go and things that perhaps will keep their interest, especially if they show an interest in fountains, history, and/or art.

However, I have noticed in the early evenings children playing in larger open spaces like Piazza Navona (where traffic is prohibited), and in Campo de'Fiori.  But, you have to really watch out for bicycles and skateboarders zooming in and out of crowds.  It is very dangerous for small children.  There is also Pincio Gardens above Piazza del Popolo where children can romp in the grass while the adults relax and take in the scenery.  There is also the Zoological Gardens which is a treat for young and old alike, as well as the Villa Borghese Gardens.

But, if you do bring the kiddies, they will be most welcomed, honestly.  Just be prepared to put up with a lot.  Even with overcrowded buses and subway, you will most always find someone who will give a mother a baby or young child their seat.  Sometimes, a mother and young children might be allowed to the head of a line, too.  Kids under 3 ft. 3 in. (1 m) tall travel free on public transportation.  The key is if you are traveling with children to not pack too much stuff into any one day.  Leave plenty of time for relaxation and just looking around.

Picnics in Pincio Gardens are really nice; you can find paper cartons of fruit juices and canned soft drinks at snack bars and tobacchi's but they are expensive (there are literally no supermarkets or "mom-and-pop"-type grocery stores in Old Rome).  There is a supermarket on Viale Trastevere called Standa and it is very reasonable but way out of the way for most people to go just to get drinks and items for a picnic.  However, you can rest assured that drinking water from the water fountains is safe, so it is advisable to carry a water bottle so you can freshen your palette whenever you want.  Campo de'Fiori and just off via del Corso/via Fonanella Borghese, there are a few neat open-air vegetable and fruit stands where you can pick up your picnic goodies, including breads and cheeses, but go early.

There also also street vendors in small food vans called Bibetti at the tourits areas such as in front of St. Peter's Square, the Coliseum, Castel Sant'Angelo, in front of the Forum, Piazza Venezia, etc. that sell cold drinks, candy bars, and basic sandwiches, but, again, these tend to get expensive.

Fast food is sometimes a treat for the little ones if you are walking the streets of Rome.  Try some suppli al telefono (rice croquettes with stringy mozzarella inside) from piazza al taglio shops.  If you are in the Via di Ripetta area, try some deep-fried fruit and vegetables.  Bring paper napkins because most of the fast food in Rome is very messy. If nothing will satisfy them but the standard American peanut butter sandwich, you can find it at Ruggieri on Campo de'Fiori.  If all else fails, there is the good old standby, McDonald's, which are all over Rome.

THINGS FOR KIDS TO DO

That is a good one.  One thing that is most fun is climbing to the top of St. Peter's Dome at the Vatican.  The view from the top is spectacular but mom and dad might not be as eager to take the trek as are the children.  You must remember, however, that this is a church and, as such, unnecessary noise is strictly prohibited, especially while inside the Dome and basilica itself.  Always be aware that if you take children into churches, they must remain quiet and reverent at all times or you will be asked to leave very quickly.  I've seen few children under teenage years inside churches or the Vatican in my visits so far -- not that there aren't, but I haven't seen them.  Disruption of silence inside these sacred places is not tolerated.

Another fun sight to take children is Castel Sant'Angelo.  Kids enjoy the wide circular ramp leading up to the different levels of the castle, looking at the nice views of the district from the different terraces, and visiting the museum inside which has a lot of armor and weaponry of ancient times (not to mention the courtyard with several cannon and piles of cannonballs scattered all around.

The Villa Borghese is also a wonderful place to take children.  It has pony-cart rides and rowboats you can rent and, as previously mentioned, the zoo, plus the Cinema dei Piccoli (small cinema) that shows cartoons, and a fun fair.  On Janiculum Hill during the summer months, on every afternoon except for Wednesdays, there are traditional puppet shows that will totally amuse your little ones (and probably you as well).  Of course, the good old standby TV in the hotel room will also keep your little ones occupied with cartoons playing (but who wants to spend their time in a hotel room when in Rome!).

Villa Celimontana has an open-air theatre performance in the summer months as well as bike trails to explore.

At the EUR, there is an amusement park, though a little old-fashioned to what Americans are used to with the mega-amusement parks we have in the States, and, though accessible by Metro Line B, the EUR is quite a distance from Old Rome.

Children are perhaps most amused in visiting Rome during the Christmas holidays.  If you are traveling to Rome during the Holiday season, there is the Befana Christmas Toy Fair in Piazza Navona that is wonderful for children.  Also, the bigger-than-life-sized Nativity at St. Peter's Square is also awesome.

Above all, have fun!

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