Many of Rome's churches and basilicas have undergone major cleaning/renovation in preparation for the new millennium.  The Vatican is now sparkling white - in fact, some Romans feel it has been cleaned too well.

Many churches in Rome are quite dark inside, but some have coin-operated lighting for chapels, special paintings and statuary, so make sure you bring some change for those churches that have those features. Also, be aware that dress codes are vigorously enforced in all Roman churches; St. Peter's is especially strict.  No sleeveless blouses or sleeveless shirts (such as tanktops), or shorts.  Dresses should be at least to the knee; preferably below the knee.  Shoes must be worn also.  I always wear black tennis shoes (personal preference) and that seems to be okay.  I have seen people wearing tee-shirts (shoulders covered) and jeans, which is okay.

Appropriate Dress is a MUST!  If you are out sightseeing in shorts, miniskirts, tanktops, sleeveless blouses, etc., and wish to enter a church, you must be dressed appropriately (check my Dress - Etiquette section of the General Information page).  People who monitor visitors in churches have the right to refuse entrance if in their opinion the visitor is dressed inappropriate to enter.  One way to get around this is to carry long pants and a shirt/blouse with sleeves in a bag or backpack so that when you wish to enter a church, you can slip these garments on over your inappropriate attire before you enter.  Strict dress codes are especially adhered to at St. Peter's, so I wouldn't even try to enter wearing short skirts, shorts, or sleeveless tops.  You will be refused entrance.

A lot of churches and basilicas have books available about the history of that particular building.  If you have the extra money, I highly recommend purchasing those that you are interested in.  I could kick myself for not doing so at the time and have to do it the next time I visit.  Postcards, however few, are also often available of the interior of the churches, but be prepared to pay quite a bit for them.

There are hundreds of churches in Rome (in all of Rome, over 900), most all of them containing at least one or two things worth seeing.  But, one cannot see all the churches or you wouldn't have time for anything else.  I have listed some of the more notable churches of Rome below and what I think is worth seeing in each and have highlighted those that I believe are a 'must see' with a red dot.  For quite a larger listing of the churches of Rome, both in Old Rome and all of Rome, all denominations, please refer to the Church List at the bottom of this page.  I have broken Rome up into sections and what churches are in each section.  This makes it easier to plan your day of touring.  Have fun!

Pictures.  I have collected a vast amount of pictures of the different churches in Old Rome.  If you are interested in a photo of any particular church that you can't seem to find, let me know and if I have one, I will be glad to email it to you.  Some churches do not like for you to take flash pictures; others are so dark or the ceiling is so high that unless you have a very expensive professional camera, your picture will not come out.  However, most churches have postcards available at souvenir stalls or offices inside the church for purchase.  The larger churches and basilicas, and more popular and important churches also have gift/souvenir shops as well.

Praecordia. You will note in a lot of the apses of the churches, there are what is called praecordia (which translates to 'part of the heart') in which parts of different pontiffs' hearts are actually entombed behind the wall where the heart-shaped icons in frames are hung.  Pope Sixtus V started this tradition in the late 1500s and it wasn't until the early 1900s that it was stopped by Pope Pius X.  Some religious stores sell praecordias and some churches will allow them to be hung near religious statues or paintings in niches in memory of a loved one (for a steep fee, of course).  The only place I have ever found that sells praecordias is a rather large religious souvenir shop across from the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore on a street that border the side of the Basilica.  It is called Casa del Rosario and it is located at via Esquilino, 33-34.  They have wonderful religious souvenirs and gift items as well as praecordia, which run about 34 euro each.

Relics.  The mentioning of 'relics' being located at a certain place is often times misunderstood.  A lot of people think that this means all of whatever is mentioned, be it relics of saints or of clothing or objects of a religious nature, are located in the place that it is mentioned.  This is not the case.  'Relics' used in its modern sense, are of some object, notably part of the body or clothes or object, remaining as a memorial of a departed saint or an object pertaining to Jesus.  It does not mean the entire body or object is located in this certain place.  A good case in point is that in a lot of guidebooks/resource books, it says, that "relics of the remains of the skulls of Sts. Peter and Paul are kept in a silver urn under the High Altar at San Giovanni in Laterano.  This means that a sliver of the bone matter or tissue from these saints are located here, but it does not mean this is where they are buried.  In this case, St. Peter is buried in the Tomb of St. Peter underneath the Basilica of St. Peter.  The Tomb of St. Paul is located under the High Altar of San Paolo fuori le Mura (St. Paul Outside the Walls) in Rome.  Also, while the 'relics' of St. James may be located in San Giovanni in Laterano, the Tomb of James the Lesser (one of the Apostles) is located under the High Altar at ss. Apostoli (Church of the Holy Apostles) near Piazza Venezia in Rome.  The Vatican has a Relics Library that contains the remains of all the saints.  Slivers of bone are often collected from the remains and distributed to various religious sites throughout the world.

The same holds true for 'relics' of objects.  Case in point, slivers of the True Cross.  A small portion of the True Cross may be located in many different places, i.e., in the Sanctuary of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, under the cross atop the obelisk in St. Peter's Square, behind the pilaster of St. Helena in the Basilica of St. Peter.  It doesn't mean the entire True Cross is located there.

Vatican Sector

For information on the Basilica of St. Peter and other sites inside Vatican City, please see my Vatican and Environs page.

Santo Spirito in Sassia, Borgo Santo Spirito 4. Open 7a-1230p and 4-8p daily, tel. 687.93.10.  (Holy Spirit of the Saxon Quarter)

This church was built in the 8th century by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger.  It was constructed on the site of a church that was built by King Ine of Wessex.  It was rebuilt between 1538-44 after it was destroyed in the Sack of Rome in 1527; the facade was added between 1585-90 during the reign of Pope Sixtus V.  The 1471 bell-tower was built by Baccio Pontelli.

This Carmelite church sits on the site of an ancient Roman pyramid.  In the Middle Ages, it was believed to have been the Tomb of Romulus. This present-day church was built in 1566 as a replacement of an earlier church which was also completely flattened by cannon fire at Castel Sant'Angelo during the Sack of Rome (1527).  Check out the third chapel on the left.  The two columns are said to be those to which St. Peter and St. Paul were bound before their deaths.

Sant'Agnese in Agone, Piazza Navona, tel. 679.44.35, 5a-630p Mon-Sat; 10a-1p Sundays and public holidays.  (Church of St. Agnes in Agony)

This beautiful church faces Fontana dei Fiumi (Fountain of the Rivers, built in 1651), which is the centerpiece of Piazza Navona.  To see the underground ruins of the Roman circus and large marble altarpiece (by A. Algardi), you need to apply to the Sacristy.  The beautiful ceiling frescoes and main altar cupola is well worth seeing. A wonderful treat is being there when the choir is performing.

Santa Maria dell'Anima was started in the 16th century by Giuliano da Sangallo and is the only German church in Rome.  The bell-tower is accredited to Bramante.  The church contains the tomb of Pope Adrian VI.  Of special interest:  a monument to Hadrian VI (1523 to a Peruzzi design); and the altarpiece on the High Altar is by Giulio Romano.  If the interior of the church is closed, ring No. 20, Piazza della Pace at the back.

This beautiful old church was built in 1480 by Baccio Pontelli for Sixtus IV.  The Baroque facade was added in 1656 by Pietro da Cortona and the piazza enlarged to accommodate the carriages of the church's wealthy parishioners.  Of interest is the high altar under the cupola which houses the miraculous image of the Madonna of Peace, which bled when hit by a stone.  Of special interest:  Raphael's frescoes of the Sibyls which is above the first altar on the right near the front door, and Bramante's cloisters.  The church is more often closed than open, but the cloister is used in the summer for concerts.  I have been lucky in that every time I have visited, it has been open.

Giacomo della Porta built this church in 1518.  It was inaugurated in 1589 and many Frenchmen are buried within its walls.  Domenichino's Life of St. Cecilia frescoes in the second chapel on the right are a must-see.  Also a must-see are Caravaggio's three masterpieces which are located in the fifth chapel on the left:  Vocation of St. Matthew, St. Matthew and the Angel; and Martyrdom of St. Matthew (1598-1601).

This is the only church in Rome which has a twisted spiral spire.  It was built in 1660 by Borromini.  The cupola is well worth viewing.  The church itself is very small and circular tucked inside a rather large courtyard.

Construction of Sant'Andrea della Valle was begun in 1591 by Giacomo della Porta and F. Grimaldi.  It was finished in 1625 by Maderno.  After the dome of St. Peter's, this church's dome is the next highest.  This church was also the scene of the first act of Puccini's opera, Tosca.  You will find the tombs of Popes Pius II and III here as well.

This church was originally known as St. Mary in Vallicella and took some 30 years to build.  It was built for S. Filippo Neri beginning in 1575, continuing in 1583 by M. Longhi the Elder, and finally being completed in 1605 by F. Rughesi.  Most of the interior is filled with frescoes by Pietro da Cortona, and Rubens' two pictures with Saints (1608) adorn the sides of the altar in the Presbytery.  You can visit the rooms where S. Filippo Neri lived just past the Sacristy.

Giacomo Pietrasanta built this church between 1479 and 1483.  It contains the high altar, built by Bernini.  Also contains the famed Madonna of the Pilgrims by Caravaggio, which scandalized Rome because it depicted pilgrims with dirt on the soles of their feet (over the first altar on the left).

The area where this church was built in ancient times was the site of a laurel grove (in lauro); hence, the name of the church.  What you see today was built by Ottaviano Mascherino in the 16th century.  The bell-tower and Sacristy were added in the 18th century by the sculptor responsible for Trevi Fountain, Nicola Salvi.  San Giorgio Convent next door to this church has a monument to Pope Eugenius IV who moved here when old St. Peter's was torn down.  The first major altarpiece by Pietro da Cortona (an artist of the 17th century) called The Birth of Jesus is in the first chapel on the right and well worth seeing.

The original church was erected in medieval times and was rebuilt in the 18th century by Ferdinando Fuga.  It is dedicated to the saint (who later became the first Bishop of Ravena) that was said to have traveled from Antioch to Rome with St. Peter.  Special services are held on Sundays in which Gregorian chants are sung by the priests.  Absolutely inspiring.

Sant'Ignazio di Loyola, Piazza di Sant'Ignazio, Tel. 679 44 06. 7:30a-1230p and 4p-715p daily.  (St. Ignatius of Loyola)

This beautiful church was built by Cardinal Ludovisi in 1626, dedicated to St. Ignatius of Loyola.  Gilt, stucco, marble, and precious stones line its massive interior.  Worth seeing is a fake perspective painting that takes the place of a cupola that was supposed to be built but never was.  You would swear there is a cupola there but, in reality, it is a flat surface!  The supports that were built to hold the weight of the cupola actually support the Collegio Romano observatory.  Also noteworthy is the ceiling in which the frescoes do not look down at you but, rather, as you look up at them, they seem to be ascending into the Heavens.  Some of the fresco figures also come down the side of the church walls from the ceiling.  Very different than the ceiling frescoes of most other churches in Rome.  Put this one on your itinerary!

The first Pantheon was constructed by Marcus Agrippa between 27-25 B.C.  Between 118-125 A.D., Emperor Hadrian built a new Pantheon and, in 609, it was consecrated as the Church of Santa Maria ad Martyres under Pope Boniface IV.  This is truly a majestic building and one of the only ancient structures left in Rome that is still intact and in use today.  The only light that enters the circular building is through a hole in the center of the coffered dome called the "oculus".  It is the same as in Nero's "Golden House".  The building was constructed from a new material of the time called concrete, which was born after the great fire of Rome in 64 and new fireproofing codes had been enacted.  The beautiful marble inlaid floor (which is of the original Roman design) is sloped slightly so that rainwater would be able to drain from inside the building.  In 735, Pope Gregory III had the roof done in lead and, in 663, Emporer Constans II removed the gilded tiles from the roof.  To support the heavy dome, the walls are 19 feet thick.  The Rotonda's height and width are the same - 140 feet.  The original portico built by M. Agrippa remain and is built on the foundation of the original temple.  There were twin bell towers added on each side of the portico, but due to ridicule they were removed in 1883 leaving the original structure.  The interior walls are lined with tombs, including that of painter Raphael and King Vittorio Emanuele II.  It is interesting to note that when the papal seat was located in Avignon between 1305-1377, the Pantheon was used as a poultry market and fortress.  In 1632, Urban VIII had the bronze from the portico/dome melted down to provide Bernini the bronze with which to build the baldacchino in St. Peter's Basilica.  Concerts are also held here from time to time.  A MUST-SEE!

Construction of this massive church was begun in 1568 by Vignola and was finally finished by Giacomo della Porta in 1575.  It is quite large and sits behind Palazzo Venezia where via d. Plebiscito and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II meet in Piazza del Gesu.  You will find the tomb of St. Ignatius (its founder) buried under the altar.  Also found in this church is the largest known globe made of solid lapis-lazuli.  Be sure to check out the exquisite ceiling painting, Triumph in the Name of Jesus.

This church was originally built over the Temple of Minerva and was rebuilt in 1280 by the Dominicans.  It is the only Gothic church in Rome.  Behind the Sacristy is the chapel where St. Catherine died in 1380.  Part of her relics are buried under the high altar.  A statue worth seeing is Michelangelo's  Christ Carrying the Cross (1521).  The tombstone of painter Beato Angelico (1387-c1455) is also here.  In the piazza is Bernini's famed marble elephant statue with an Egyptian obelisk on top.  This church is surrounded by religious shops catering to priests and religious leaders, containing exquisite ceremonial robes, miters, jeweled books, chalices, and the like, and well worth browsing.  Who knows, you may buy something exquisite!  I sure did!  The Pantheon is a block away.

The origin of this church goes back to very early Christian times when it was a center for offering assistance to the poor.  Of the original church, the bell-tower (Romanesque in design) is one of the few surviving parts.  The church was totally rebuilt in the 17th and 19th centuries.

This church is amazing in design.  It has a beautiful Baroque facade of 1735 and is located near the Pantheon.  There are wonderful works of art in this church, including paintings and sculptures (statues such as Humility and Simplicity), and scenes from the Life of San Camillo who died in 1614 in the convent next door.

You can view the remains of medieval houses around the courtyard upon entering this church, once the property of the original monastery.  Antonio de Rossi rebuilt the church in 1685 in the shape of a square Greek cross with a cupola.  The painting of the Madonna above the altar is 12th century and gave the church it name.

This is one of Rome's oldest Christian churches, supposedly built over the well which was sacred to Juno (the protectress of women).  It was rebuilt in the 12th century and has a beautiful marble inlaid bell-tower.  Of interest:  the busts in the Fonseca Chapel by Bernini, and Guido Reni's Crucifixion above the main altar.  French painter Nicolas Poussin, who died in Rome in 1655 and was buried here has a 19th century monument dedicated to him.

Sant'Andrea delle Fratte, via Sant'Andrea delle Fratte 1. Tel. 679 31 91. 630a-1245p and 4p-9p daily. (St. Andrew of the Thickets)

This church was built in what was the northernmost part of Rome in the 12th century (Fratte literally means 'thickets').  Borromini partially rebuilt the church in the 17th century.  The bell-tower and dome are very unusual in that they have a very intricate pattern of convex and concave surfaces.  These are best viewed from farther up Via Capo le Case.  Of special interest are the angel caryatids in the bell-tower, with flaming torches resembling ice cream cones.  It is said that, in 1842, the Virgin Mary appeared in the church to a Jewish banker, who immediately converted and became a missionary.  The first thing you see upon entering is the Chapel of the Miraculous Madonna.  Another astonishing sight in this church are the Bernini Angels which were carved for the Ponte Sant'Angelo but were declared too breathtaking to be left outside, so were kept in Bernini's family until they were moved to the church in 1729.  During the 1997 Assisi earthquakes, this church's cupola was heavily damaged with huge cracks, forcing the church to close to the public until repairs could be made.  Repairs were made and the church has now reopened.

This is one of only a very few churches in Rome with twin bell-towers and is probably the most recognized because of its location at the top of the Spanish Steps.  From the front of this church, one has a spectacular view of the city as well.  This church was built in 1495 by the French but was later heavily damaged.  There is a wonderful life-sized statue of Christ Carrying the Cross to the right as you enter the church.  There are many side chapels, each decorated with Mannerist paintings, including two works by Daniele da Volterra, one of Michelangelo's students.  Interestingly, Volterra had to paint clothing on the nude figures in the Last Judgment in the Sistine Chapel because Pope Pius IV objected to showing genitalia that was painted by Michelangelo.  Of special interest is also The Deposition in the second chapel on the left, and The Assumption in the third chapel on the right.

It wasn't until 1816 that the Pope gave English residents and visitors the right to hold Anglican services in Rome, and it wasn't until the 1880s that they obtained the site to build their own church, which is called All Saints.  It was built by G. E. Street who is famous for building Britain's neo-Gothic churches and the London Law Courts.  In fact, the organ in this church was originally from Huddersfield, England.  Street also designed St. Paul's-Within-the-Walls in Via Nazionale (not to be confused with one of the four major churches of Rome, St. Paul's-Outside-the-Walls near Porta S. Paolo).

These are known as the twin churches and can best be viewed from the center of Piazza del Popolo.  In order to provide a focal point for the piazza, they had to look symmetrical, but the site on the left was narrower than the site on the right.  So, Baroque architect Carlo Rainaldi (1611-91) cleverly solved that problem by giving Santa Maria dei Miracoli a circular dome and Santa Maria in Montesanto an oval one.  Pretty smart!

The original church was built on this site in 1099.  A host of famous architects rebuilt this beautiful old church beginning in 1472; namely, A. Bregno, Pinturicchio, and B. Pontelli.  Later, Bramante and Bernini made additions to it.  Actually, Santa Maria del Popolo contains one of the richest collections of art of all the Rome churches, with the exception of St. Peter's, of course.  It also contains two Chigi pyramid tombs embedded in the walls of the side chapels, the tomb of Cardinal Foscari, and the tomb of Cardinal Della Revere by Mino da Fiesole and A. Bregno.  Of interest is the kneeling skeleton mosaic on the floor in the Chigi Chapel of the 17th century (there are sculpted skeletons all over this church; the skeleton is the symbol of death, obviously).  Other items of interest:  the Della Revere Chapel, and the Caravaggio paintings in the Cerasi Chapel, especially the Crucifixion of St. Peter who was crucified upside down.  The stained-glass of 1509 by French artist Guillaume de Marcillat is Rome's first two.  Also, there is the tomb of Ascanio Sforza, who died in 1505, built by Andrea Sansovino.  An interesting note on Nero's Ghost:  Nero lived on in the imagination of the people long after the fall of the Roman Empire.  In the Middle Ages, a legend arose that a walnut tree growing here on the spot where his ashes were buried was haunted by the Emperor.  Ravens roosting in the tree were thought to be demons tormenting him for his hideous crimes.  When the first church was built here, under Pope Paschal II's reign, the tree was cut down, supposedly putting an end to the supernatural events that had terrified the locals for so long.

This church originally belonged to the Lombard community in Rome and was dedicated to two canonized bishops of Milan, Lombardy's capital.  It was then given to the Lombards by Pope Sixtus IV in 1471 and they dedicated it to Sant'Ambrogio who died in 397.  After Carlo Borromeo was canonized in 1610, the church was rebuilt and dedicated to him.  The church was built mostly by Onorio and Martino Longhi, father and son.  Pietro da Cortona built the massive dome, and there is a wonderful altarpiece by Carlo Maratta (1625-1713), Gloria dei Santi Ambrogio e Carlo, that is very well worth seeing.  There is a chapel that houses the heart of San Carlo in an exquisite reliquary, that can be reached by way of an aisle that leads behind the altar.  If the church is closed, ring the porter's door to the left of the church.

Santa Maria dell'Orazione e Morte, via Giulia. Open for Mass 6p Sunday and public holidays.  (St. Mary of Prayer and Death)

The main theme of this church is death.  In the 16th century, this church collected the bodies of the unknown dead so that they could be given a Christian burial.  Ferdinando Fuga decorated the facade's doors and windows with winged skulls and an ancient hourglass, called a clepsydra, is located above the central entrance to the church.  The hourglass is a symbol of death.

The interior and dome are products of Raphael.  This 16th century church was so-named because it was sponsored by the area's goldsmiths (orefici) of the time.  The cupola is by Baldassarre Peruzzi and the facade is by Flaminio Ponzio in the 17th century.  There are paintings inside by 16th century painters, including Taddeo Zuccari, who also contributed to the works that are housed in Palazzo Farnese.

This is the Spanish national church of Rome dating back to 1506.  It originally started as a hospice for pilgrims from Spain by a brotherhood of the Virgin of Montserrat in Catalonia.  There is a fine Bernini bust of Cardinal Pedro Foix de Montoya, which was the church's benefactor.  There are some 15th century tombs by Andrea Bregno and Luigi Capponi located in the side chapels and courtyard.

The Sacristy altar of gold and inlay is breathtaking in this church, which has an exquisite crucifix inlaid with marble, mother-of-pearl, and glass by sculptor Algardi.  This is Rome's Milanese community church founded in 1620, dedicated to Cardinal Carlo Borromeo.  It gets its name because of the bowl makers (catinari) that occupied shops in the surrounding neighborhood.  In 1638, Soria built the beautiful travertine facade.  Antonio Gherardi designed and decorated the St. Cecilia Chapel.  Examples of the paintings and frescoes from the Counter Reformation are by Pietro da Cortona and Guido Reni, which depict the Life of San Carlo.

This church, designed by Carlo Rainaldi, was finished in 1667.  During and after the dreaded plague that ravished Rome in the 17th century, little could be done to eradicate it so people prayed for a cure to a medieval icon of the Virgin called the Madonna del Portico.  In 1656, church construction was started to house this icon.  There is a gilded altar tabernacle designed by Giovanni Antonio de Rossi which contains the image of the Virgin (the medieval icon).  Paintings by Rome's master painters such as Il Baciccia, Luca Giodano, and Conca line the side chapels and are well worth taking a look at.

This medieval church occupies the ancient site of three Roman temples of the Republican era.  These temples were eventually converted into a prison (called carcere, which means prison).  The temples were those of Spes, Juno, and Janus, and they faced one of Rome's gates that led from the Forum Holitorium (the City's vegetable and oil market) down to the port which was on the Tiber.  There are columns embedded in the walls of the church that belonged to two side-by-side temples whose platforms are now marked by grass lawns.  In 1599, the church was rebuilt, and restored again in the 19th century, but the bell-tower is part of the original church.  You can see that the bell-tower and the facade of the church do not go together because of the different styles of architecture.

Pompey the Great originally brought Jews to Rome as slaves.  During the Roman Empire, Jews were appreciated for the medical and financial skills they possessed.  Their relative freedom continued in the Middle Ages but, in the 16th century, they started experiencing systematic persecution.  On the orders of Pope Paul IV, in 1556, high walls were erected around the Jews and they were forced to live inside those walls.  The gates were closed at night, but during the day they were free to leave the walled enclosure separating them from the rest of Rome.  They were driven to the Church of Sant'Angelo in Pescheria and forced to listen to Christian sermons on Sundays (a practice that did not end until 1848).  Persecution started again under Fascism when many Jews were sent to German concentration camps.  The Synagogue on Lungotevere was built in 1874.

This church was built by several architects, starting with I. Sansovino in the 15th century, continued by A. da Sangallo the Younger and Giacomo della Porta, and completed by C. Maderno, taking over 100 years to construct.  Pope Leo X wanted it to be an "expression of cultural superiority of Florence over Rome".  Artists from Tuscany decorated the church.  Carlo Maderno and Borromini are buried in the church and the altar is by Borromini.  This is the only church in Rome where animals are welcomed.  The faithful bring their pets, and the annual Easter lamb-blessing ceremony takes place here.  Well worth seeing is Antonio Raggi's sculpture, The Baptism of Christ.

Santa Maria in Aracoeli, Piazza d'Aracoeli (entrances via Aracoeli Staircase and door behind Palazzo Nuovo). Tel. 679 81 55. Open 7a-noon, 4p-6p (June-Sept 630p) daily. (St. Mary of the Altar in the Sky)

This ancient church, built on the ancient site of the Temple to Juno, is from the 6th century and is located at the top of the famed Aracoeli Staircase by Michelangelo at the Capitoline.  The 22 columns that support the church are from ancient buildings of the area.  An inscription on the third column to the left explains that it comes from a cubiculo Augustorum (from the bedroom of the emperors).  The Commemoration of the Battle of Lepanto in 1571 adorns the ceiling and was built during the reign of Pope Gregory III Boncompagni whose family crest (the dragon) is located toward the end of the altar.  To the right of the entrance door is a tombstone by Donatello memorializing archdeacon Giovanni Crivelli.  The Pinturicchio frescoes in the first chapel on the right of the 1480s pertain to the life and death of St. Bernardino of Siena and on the left wall is The Burial of the Saint.  The most famous thing about Santa Maria in Aracoeli is the Santo Bambino, an olive-wood figure of the Christ Child dating from the 15th century, which was carved by a Franciscan monk out of a tree from the Garden of Gethsemane.  The figure's miraculous powers are supposed to include resurrecting the dead, and it is sometimes carried to the bedside of the gravely ill.  If the statue can help the person, its lips turn purple; if not, then they turn pale.  During the holidays, the statue is moved to the crèche (second chapel on the left), but is usually located in the Sacristy, as is the panel of the Holy Family from the workshop of Giulio Romano.

This is one of the oldest intact churches in Rome, founded in 336 by St. Mark (who is the patron saint of Venice), then pope, in honor of St. Mark the Evangelist.  Relics of Pope Mark are found under the altar.  This church was restored in the 9th century under the reign of Pope Gregory IV.  In 1471, Pope Paul II Barbo made San Marco the church of the Venetian community of Rome.  You will see the pope's crest decorating the blue-and-gold coffered ceiling.  In the 1740s, Filippo Barigioni created the colonnades in Sicilian jasper, quite striking.  The colonnades on the sides of the church hide the original pillars of the nave.  It looks as though a new ornate box-shaped wall was lowered into place to hide the original walls of the basilica, though you can see both very distinctively.  The odor in this church reeks old.  Definitely worth seeing.  It is on the back side of Palazzo Venezia in Piazza San Marco just around the corner from Piazza Venezia, and across the street from the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument.

Admission charge is for entry to the Roman Forum.  Apr-Sep. 9a-7p Mon.-Sat. and 9a-2p on Sun.  Oct.-Mar. 9a-3p Mon.-Sat. and 9a-2p on Sun.  Closed public holidays.

Santa Francesca Romana, Piazza di Santa Francesca Romana, 9:30a-1p, and 4p-7p daily. (St. Francis of Rome)

Originally called Santa Maria Nova, it is inside the Roman Forum.  Every March 9, motorists park as close as they can to this church so their cars can be blessed by Santa Francesca Romana, who is the patron saint of motorists.  This is quite a sight to see if you are in Rome during this time of year.  Of note is a flagstone that show the imprints of the knees of St. Peter and St. Paul.

This is the 16th-century Church of St. Joseph of the Carpenters.  Beneath it is the famed Mamertine Prison where St. Peter was imprisoned and also has an altar with a cross presented upside down, the way St. Peter was crucified.  The prison was an old cistern with access to the city's main sewer at the time of Imperial Rome.  The lower cell was used for executions and the bodies were then thrown into the sewer.  The entire complex is also known as San Pietro in Carcere (St. Peter in Prison).

This medieval church was rebuilt in 1640 by Pietro da Cortona and is at the base of the steps leading to the Campidoglio.  NOTE:  I have never found this church open whenever I have visited the Foro Romano.

This church is on the site of the Temple of Romulus.  The domed building is part of the present church.  Of special interest is viewing the creche.

One of the strangest and most preserved sight in the Roman Forum is the Baroque facade of this church, which incorporates the ancient Temple of Antoninus and Faustina.  It was first dedicated in 141 A.D. (portico still completely intact) as a temple and became in church in the 11th century after St. Lawrence was condemned to death there.

Sant'Onofrio, Piazza di Sant'Onofrio, 2. 10a-noon Sunday for Mass; otherwise, admission by appointment only. Tel. 686 44 98. Closed August except for Saint's Feast Day on August 12.  Museum is open by appointment only, but well worth seeing.

San Pietro in Montorio, Piazza San Pietro in Montorio, 2. 9a-noon and 4p-630p daily.  If closed, ring bell at door to the right of the church. (St. Peter's on the Gold Mountain)

Known as "The Church of St. Peter", it was built where, according to tradition, St. Peter was crucified, and was rebuilt in the 15th century by Baccio Pontelli in Renaissance form.  However, documents indicate St. Peter was in fact crucified in Nero's Circus to the left of St. Peter's Basilica.  The interior is simple with chapels and niches containing various works of art, as is common in a lot of Rome's churches.  Of special interest is Sebastiano del Piombo's The Flagellation, which is located in the first chapel on the right. The Deposition by Dirck van Baburen (1617) is in the fourth chapel on the left.  A beautiful panorama of Rome can be seen from the square.  There is a small court to the right of the church that houses the Tempietto of Bramante, an elegant circular building with an outer ring of columns and cupola, built in 1502.  A hole in the chapel below is said to be where the cross of St. Peter was fixed.  This is very well worth seeing if you have the time.

Santa Maria della Scala, Via della Scala. 630a-noon and 4p-7p (Oct-Mar 615p) Mon-Sat; 645a-1215p Sun. and public holidays. (St. Mary of the Holy Stairs)

The Baroque altar of this church is incredibly ornate, with multicolored marble columns, gold, and angels adorning the top of the altar.  This church was built in the 16th century and is well worth seeing for the altar.

This church construction was started in the 1640s by Borromini but, like many of his projects, was left unfinished.  The brick facade and concave and convex surfaces tell the viewer it was definitely a Borromini work.

The Museum of Roman Folklore and of the Romanesque Poets is part of the collection previously displayed in Palazzo Braschi.

This basilica shares its location with a 17th century fountain and the 17th century Palace of S. Callisto.  This was actually the first church in Rome to be dedicated to Mary, but the present church dates from 1130-43.  12th and 13th century mosaics adorn the front of the church, and a Romanesque bell-tower is reached via a portico under which are located various marbles and funeral tablets.  The interior has a nave and two aisles on large ancient trabeated columns.  The lush wooden roof was done by Domenichino in 1617.  In the Presbytery, closed by a marble surround, a mark indicates the place where oil spurted out on the day of Christ's birth (a legend).  Large mosaics of 1140 cover the great arch at the end (The Cross Between Symbols) and the half-dome of the apse (The Saviour, The Virgin and Saints); there are six mosaic panels under these of the Life of Mary, by Cavallini in 1291.

On the left of the Piazza Sonnino is the 13th century Tower of the Anguillara with the restored little palace and now the site of the House of Dante; the Church of S. Crisognono, rebuilt in the 12th century (the same date as the bell-tower) and altered in the 17th century is at the end.  The nave and two aisles are on ancient columns, the pavement is Cosmatesque, the fine wooden ceiling in Baroque style, and in the apse, a mosaic of the Cavallini school of the 13th century.

Dating from before the 5th century, this church was rebuilt in the 9th century and altered several times since, especially in the 18th century.  The bell-tower is from 1113 and the Baroque facade is by F. Fuga.  The 12th century portico is accessed by way of the courtyard.  There is a nave and two aisles.  To the left of the main entrance is the tomb of Mino da Fiesole (circa 1473) and to the right is the tomb of Paolo Romano of the late 14th century.  You will find beautiful frescoes in a corridor at the beginning of the right aisle by Pomarancio and P. Bril that are of landscapes.  There is a marble statue of St. Sebastian by L. Lotti (16th century) at the end of the corridor which gives entrance to the ancient caldarium where St. Cecilia suffered the torture of suffocation by steam.  On the altar is the Decollation of the Saint by Guido Reni (well worth seeing).  In 1283, Arnoldo di Cambio created the Gothic canopy which covers the High Altar.  There is the famed white marble statue of St. Cecilia by S. Maderno (1600) in which he portrays her as she had been found in the tomb in 1599.  There is also a 9th century mosaic located in the apse worth seeing as well.  From the modern crypt at the beginning of the left aisle (admission charge), one descends to the remains of Roman constructions of various eras, spread out under the entire church.  Awesome and worth seeing.  In the convent adjacent to the church, the nuns' choir is decorated with a monumental fresco of P. Cavallini's masterpiece, The Last Judgment (late 13th century).  The fresco can be visited during the times indicated at the beginning of this synopsis.  There is also an exquisite outdoor tomb in the portico of the Basilica on the right side as you face the Basilica.

This is a Baroque church that was built in 1689.  In the last chapel on the left is Bernini's  Statue of the Blessed Ludovica Albertoni (1674) and also a canvas by Baciccia.  The 16th century The Annunciation by F. Salviati is located in the next chapel.  In the convent (apply to the Sacristy to visit) is the cell in which St. Francis lived, with a 13th century portrait of the saint.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin, Piazza della Bocca della Verita, 18. 9a-1p and 3p-6p daily (Oct-Mar 5p). Phone first at 678 14 19.

This plain-looking church was built on the site of ancient Rome's food market in the 6th century.  It has a Romanesque bell-tower and portico that were added in the 12th century.  The Baroque facade was removed in the 19th century to restore the church to its original form.  Of particular interest is the mosaic pavement, raised choir, the bishop's throne, and the canopy over the main altar.  Set into the wall is the famed Bocca della Verita (Mouth of Truth).  This was in the movie, "Roman Holiday".  This is thought to have been a drain cover dating before the 4th century B.C.  Medieval tradition had it that the formidable jaws of the mouth would snap shut over the hands of those who told lies - which proved to be useful for testing the faithfulness of spouses.

This 7th century basilica, dedicated to St. George, is located in the ancient low-lying swamp (Velabrum) where Romulus and Remus are said to have been found by the she-wolf.  St. George's bones are located under the altar.  This church has suffered from heavy floods over the many centuries but has always been restored to its original simplicity.  It has a double row of granite and marble columns that were taken from ancient Roman temples, which divide the triple nave.  Pietro Cavallini's 1295 golden frescoes adorn the apse.  The bell-tower and facade are of the 12th century.  You can see the high water marks of 1870 on the portico of the basilica.  Unfortunately, this church suffered extensive damage due to a bombing in 1993.  Through major efforts for restoring this basilica, it has now re-opened.

This is a 6th century round church found at the foot of the Palatine.  The 6th century mosaics in the apse are spectacular and well worth viewing.  Don't forget to see the Florentine cupola erected in 1454.  Carlo Fontana designed the outer courtyard in 1705.

Located at the foot of the Tarpeian Rock, which was the site of numerous public executions.  In 1385, an image of the Virgin Mary was placed here to give some solace to condemned prisoners before their execution.  Two gold florins were paid by a condemned nobleman, Giordanello degli Alberini, for this icon to be placed here.  The church was then erected on this spot in 1470, hence, the name.  Between 1583 and 1606, Martino Longhi rebuilt the church, adding the Baroque facade.  The church has 11 side chapels that are owned by families of nobility and local crafts guild members.  The famed image of Mary, by Antoniazzo Romano, is located in the Presbytery.

This church was built in 1490 under the reign of Pope Innocent VIII.  G. Vasari's  Beheading of St. John, painted in 1553 is above the main altar in this strange church.  This church belonged to a Florentine fraternal order of priests who dressed in black hooded robes.  The mission of these priests were to try to get prisoners to repent before being executed (usually by hanging).  In this way, the prisoner could obtain a Christian burial.  There are seven manholes in the cloisters that the bodies were put in (one manhole was reserved for women).  Check out the oratory for frescoes on the life of St. John the Baptist by Francesco Salviati and Jacopino del Conte (these resemble some of the figures in the Sistine Chapel).

Compared to other churches in Rome, Santa Sabina is rather bland inside, but well-lighted.  This church was founded in 422 AD by Peter of Illyria.  It was restored to its original charm in the early 20th century.  This is a Dominican church of the 13th century and there is a mosaic tombstone in the nave of Munoz de Zamora who died in 1300, one of the original leaders of the Dominican order.  One of the earliest depictions of the crucifixion that exists are found in the 5th century doors (side portico) that are carved from cypress wood, each containing scenes from the Bible.  A spectacular panoramic view of Rome can be seen from the adjoining Orange Park which is on the church grounds.  Excellent photo op from the park!

The remains of the two Christian martyrs that this church is dedicated to lie under its main altar.  The five-story bell-tower was built in 1217.  Check out part of the Bergondi staircase in the 18th century Baroque chapel.  There is also the well from Alessio's family home and the magnificent Byzantine Madonna of the Intercession, which was brought to Rome from Damascus in the 10th century that is well worth seeing if you are in the area.

This church is of the 10th century.  Major ancient remains can be seen in the portico.  The church is Greek in style and has three naves.  There is a shorter fourth nave that has 13th century frescoes of the Life of St. Nicholas of Bari that are wonderful.  Of special interest is the scene of three naked young ladies laying in bed; they are saved by the gift of a bag of gold from St. Nicholas, the future Santa Claus.  The marble inlay in the main door and the remains of the choir are 13th century.  This ancient church is well worth seeing.

Santi Giovanni e Paolo, Piazza Santi Giovanni e Paolo, 13. 9a-11a and 4p-530p daily.  (Church of Sts. John and Paul)

This church is dedicated to two Roman officer martyrs who once lived on this site.  Giovanni and Paolo served under Rome's first Christian emperor, Constantine.  They were beheaded in 362 AD after refusing to serve under the pagan emperor Julian the Apostate.  Of special interest is the ancient fresco Christ and the Apostles, which can still be seen on the walls (you will have to ask the Sacristan to open the door for you to view this marvelous fresco).  This church was built in the 4th century and still has a lot of the original structure.  The bell-tower was added by Nicholas Breakspeare in the 12th century.  Breakspeare was the only English pope, who reigned as Adrian IV.  The base of the bell-tower was part of the Temple of Claudius that stood here.  The tomb slab in the nave marks the burial place of Giovanni and Paolo, whose remains are in an urn under the High Altar.  Underneath the church, digging has found two houses of the 2nd and 3rd centuries, which were of two-story construction with some 20 rooms and many corridors.  There are many well-preserved pagan and Christian paintings here, well worth seeing.  The arches on the left of the church were part of 3rd century shops.  This is an amazing church because there are crystal chandeliers bordering both sides of the central nave from the entrance to the church all the way up the sides and to the High Altar (36 in all, 18 on each side).  Well worth seeing!

This church looks more like a palazzo than a church.  Here, St. Augustine was sent to convert England to Christianity and, therefore, the church is very important to the English.  San Gregorio Magno (St. Gregory the Great) built the church in 575 AD.  This was originally his house, which he turned into a monastery.  Giovanni Battista Soria restored it in 1629-33.  Sir Edward Carne is buried here.  He came to Rome to get the pope's consent for the annulment of Henry VIII's marriage to Catherine of Aragon.  There are also some ancient columns inside.  In the Chapel of St. Gregory is a smaller chapel thought to be his cell and houses his beautiful episcopal throne which is a Roman chair of sculpted marble.  There is also a painting of the Virgin who supposedly spoke to St. Gregory in the Salviati Chapel.  Francesco Ferrari rebuilt the interior in the 18th century.

This church takes its name from a 16th century fountain in the piazza (small boat).  The church dates back to the 9th century and the coffered ceilings were added in the 16th century.  Check out the 9th century mosaic of Virgin and Child, where Pope Paschal I appears at the feet of the Virgin sporting a square halo of the living.  The Virgin is holding a handkerchief like a fashionable lady of the Byzantine court (very unusual).

San Sisto Vecchio, Piazzale Numa Pompilio, 8. 9a-11a daily.  Closed month of August. No cameras allowed.

This is an extremely small church that was built in 1219.  It was the first home of the Dominican nuns.  It has a superb 13th century bell-tower.

Originally, this church was built on the site where the bandage covering St. Peter's wounds fell after fleeing the city.  It was later rededicated to the 1st century martyrs St. Nereus and St. Achilleus.  On the arch are wonderful 9th century mosaics.  The pulpit rests on a huge porphyry pedestal which was brought from the Baths of Caracalla.  On the side nave wall are gruesome paintings by 16th century artist Niccolo Pomarancio showing the way in which the Apostles were killed.

This church is built over 2nd  century Roman ruins.  The church has been closed since 1988.  If you can gain entrance, the pulpit, altar, and throne are adorned with beasts and birds.  You can see the coat of arms of Pope Clement VIII on the ceiling, who commissioned this church's restoration in the 16th century.

Many restorations have been made to this very old church.  It was originally built in the 5th century and later rebuilt in 720 and restored again in 1191.  One of the best examples of old churches in Rome and well worth visiting.  There is a beautiful 12th century bell-tower.  You can barely see remains of ancient medieval frescoes and 12th century frescoes showing 46 scenes from the Old and New Testaments, the finest of their kind.  Take a look at these frescoes.  It is well worth the trip.

This church is octagonal.  This church sits on the site where St. John was supposedly boiled in oil and came out unharmed.  The design of the chapel is either Bramante or Antonio da Sangallo the Younger and is of the 16th century.  Borromini restored it later, altering the roof.  On top of the roof is a cross supported by a circle of roses, quite unique.

San Giovanni in Laterano, Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano, 4. One of the four major churches in Rome. Church and cloister open 7a-7p (Oct-Mar 6p Mon-Fri) daily.  Museum open 9a-1p and 3p-5p Mon-Fri. Admission for cloister and museum. (St. John of the Lateran)

This massive church is one of the four major churches of Rome.  The top of the facade boasts huge statues of Christ and the Apostles.  The side door on the right of the facade is only open every 25 years during Holy Year.  The current Holy Door was designed and installed for the last pilgrimage year, 2000, the Jubileum, and is quite impressive.  Inside, huge statues of the Apostles (six on each side) are in niches along the sides of the nave.  The 12th century fresco located in this Basilica, which had originally been attributed to Giotto, was likely the work of his students.  The High Altar is absolutely breathtaking.  Along the outside of the church is a loggia where the Pope gives his blessing that is exposed to the elements with beautiful ceiling frescoes.  This church has survived two fires.  The interior is from the 17th century by Borromini and the grand facade is by Alessandro Galilei of 1735.  The Papal Altar in this church was originally reserved for the Pope and only he could celebrate mass from this pulpit.  However, it is now used freely by other clergy to dispense the Holy Sacraments.  The Papal Throne in the apse is reserved only for the Pope; in fact, he must take his seat there to become Pope officially.  The Gothic baldacchino dates from the 14th century.  The domed octagonal baptistry dates from Constantine's time (432 AD) and is well worth viewing.  Over the altar in the left transcept is a gold image of the Last Supper.  Behind the glass above the gold image, one can see the Last Supper table.    The residence of the Popes until 1309 is also here (The Lateran Palace) and was rebuilt by Domenico Fontana in 1586.  In the piazza is an ancient obelisk and parts of Nero's Aqueduct.


Also, the Association of "Mater et Caput" of San Giovanni in Laterano offers to its pilgrims and visitors an electronic audio guided tour, available in different languages, which features the Archbasilica and its Cloister.  A live, guided tour is also available upon reservation, and features the Bapistery, Holy Staircase (see below), Sancta Sanctorum, and achaeological excavations, in addition to the Archbasilica and its Cloister.  Private tours after the closing time of San Giovanni in Laterano may also be arranged, by reservation only.  The Mater et Caput services are located in the main porch of the Basilica beside the statue of Constantine in the Information Office.  You can write them at:  Associazione "Mater et Caput", Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, 4, 00184 Rome ITALY c/o Canonica.  You can also telephone them at 39.06/698.86392, fax them at 39.06/698.73112, or email them at materetcaput@yahoo.com, or info@materetcaput.it.  Be sure to let them know you saw this information on my web site.

Located across the piazza from S. Giovanni in Laterano, in a building designed by Domenico Fontana in 1589.  It houses two surviving parts of the old Lateran Palace.  One is the pope's private chapel (Sancta Sanctorum) and the other is the Holy Staircase (Scala Santa).  The 28 steps, said to be those that Christ ascended in Pontius Pilate's house during his trial, were brought from Jerusalem by St. Helena in approximately 325 A.D.  When the Lateran Palace was destroyed in the late 16th century, Pope Sixtus V had the steps moved to their present site.  No foot may touch the holy steps, so they are covered by wooden boards.  They may be climbed but only on your knees, a penance that is performed especially on Good Friday.  I have done this and it is such a rewarding and awesome feeling.  However, both the left and right side of the sacred steps are staircases you can go up to see the chapels above.  Other highlights of this building include the sculpture, Ecce Homo, by Giosue Meli in 1874.  The Scala Santa lead to the Chapel of St. Lawrence, or Sancta Sanctorum, built by Pope Nicholas III in 1278.  This chapel contains many important relics, the most precious being an image of Jesus -- the Acheiropoeton, or "picture painted without hands", said to be the work of St. Luke, assisted by an angel.  The image was taken on procession in medieval times to ward off plagues.  For a picture of the Holy Staircase and a list of prayers that should be recited while ascending the Staircase on your knees, click here.  A souvenir shop is to the left at the top of the stairs.

Santa Croce in Gerusalemme is not as close to all the other beautiful churches and sights in Rome, but is well worth a subway ride to S. Giavanni (in Laterano) station and a short walk to see it.  While in the area, you can visit the Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorium, and San Giovanni in Laterano, one of the four major churches of Rome.  Back to Santa Croce in Gerusalemme.  Constantine's mother, St. Helena, founded this church in 320 AD on the grounds of her private palace.  She brought back many relics of the Crucifixion from Jerusalem, which are on display in this church.  The shrine dedicated to the relics are located on a staircase going up to the second level (the doorway to the left of the Sacristy).  Among the most important are:  the crossbar of the Cross of the Good Thief, which is under glass on the wall in the hallway going upstairs to view the relics of the Crucifixion, and part of Pontius Pilate's inscription in Latin, Hebrew, and Greek, "Jesus of Nazareth King of the Jews".  Ascending the staircase (that actually makes one feel he or she is entering an Egyptian Temple), you enter this magnificent room with five or six rows of very old pews.  On the far wall as you enter the shrine is a beautiful cross embedded in lapis lazuli.  On the vertical part of the cross just under the crossbar, is a crystal section that houses one of the nails that held Jesus' hand to the cross.  Also here are a few of the thorns from the Crown of Thorns, as well as the finger of St. Thomas.  This is an awesome sight to behold.  As of 2003, I note that there is a sign as you enter the True Cross hallway that no pictures are allowed; however, there are ample postcards available for purchase in the church's souvenir shop.

This used to be the bastion of the pope's residence, the Lateran Palace.  It is named for the four Christian soldiers who refused to worship a pagan god.  It was built in the 4th century and rebuilt after the invasion of the Normans in 1084.  You can get special permission to visit the beautiful cloister, which was built c. 1220, one of the earliest of its kind.  Check out the Chapel of St. Barbara, which has remnants of medieval frescoes.  Of special interest is the Chapel of St. Sylvester, which has frescoes of 1246 depicting the conversion of Constantine to Christianity.  The story goes that Constantine was stricken by the plague (leprosy) and was told in order to be cured he must bathe in children's blood.  Refusing to do so, he was supposedly visited by St. Peter and St. Paul in a dream, who told him to find Pope Sylvester I (who reigned 314-35), who cured him and baptized him.  In the final scene, Constantine is kneeling before Pope Sylvester I.  These frescoes are worth seeing.  It also has a wonderful Carolingian bell tower.

Like St. Peter's Basilica with different layers of history as you travel downward into the earth, this church provides three layers and is well worth seeing.  The present-day church is of the 12th century.  Underneath is the 4th century church.  Underneath that are ancient Roman buildings, including the Temple of Mithras, Mithraism, an all-male fertility cult imported from Persia in the 1st century BC.  They were rivals to Imperial Rome and Christianity.  The upper levels of this church was dedicated to St. Clement who was the fourth pope.  He was exiled from Rome and drowned in Crimea by having his feet tied to an anchor.  Catacombs were discovered in 1938 dating from the 5th and 6th centuries which contain 16 wall tombs.  Be sure to check this church out.  There are a lot of things to see here.

This is one of Rome's earliest Christian churches and it is round.  It was built between 468 and 483.  Twenty-two columns support the inner area.  The drum in the center is 72 feet high and every bit as wide.  The 22 windows high on the walls illuminate the interior.  Gruesome frescoes of the 16th century by Niccolo Pomarancio were added showing the martyrdom of many saints.  Check out the 7th century mosaic in the first chapel on the left, Christ with San Primo and San Feliciano.

San Martino ai Monti, Viale del Monte Oppio, 28. 7a-noon and 430p-7p (Oct-Mar 430p-630p) daily. (St. Martin in Monti - Rome's first district)

Built in the 4th century.  Rebuilt in the 9th century, and again by Pietro da Cortona 1635-1676. Ancient columns and frescoes by G. Dughet are worth seeing.  There is a fresco of the old San Giovanni in Laterano, and one that shows old St. Peter's before Borromini's redesign are here that is exquisite, by Filippo Gagliardi at either end of the left aisle.  This church was built on the site over the house of a man of the 3rd century named Equitius who used to have people come to worship here.  It is difficult to locate, but the Sacristan can lead you underneath the church to view the remains of this house.

An incredible story ... this church contains the chains (vincoli) that bound St. Peter during his incarceration in Mamertine Prison (next to Santi Luca e Martina basilica at the Forum).  The chains were eventually taken to Costantinpole.  During the 5th century, Empress Eudoxia put one of the chains in a church in Constantinpole and gave the other one to her daughter, Eudoxia, in Rome.  Her daughter gave her chain to Pope Leo I, who built St. Pietro in Vincoli to house it.  Many years later, the second chain was brought back to Rome where it miraculously linked with the other already there.  They are enshrined in a beautiful tabernacle on the altar.  A must-see!  This church is best known for Michelangelo's breathtaking Moses, which was originally commissioned in 1505 for the tomb of Pope Julius II.  Michelangelo spent eight months looking for the perfect marble to sculpt this tomb, but Pope Julius was so preoccupied with the building of the new St. Peter's, he put this project on hold.  He passed away in 1513, and Michelangelo resumed work on the tomb and only finished the statues of Moses and the Dying Slaves before Pope Paul III had him put the project on hold a second time in order to start work on the Sistine Chapel and Last Judgment.  The original plan was for some 40 statues but there is only six niches for statues.  The Dying Slaves are in Paris and Florence, but Moses in all his glory is here.  You would swear he is going to blink at you at any moment.  The two protruding masses coming from Moses' head look like horns but, in reality, should be beams of light.  The horns are a result of the Hebrew original from the Old Testament that were wrongly translated.  This marble tomb facade is breathtaking and is a must-see.  Also, check out the picture frame on the opposite wall in front of the High Altar that has skeletons holding up the frame.  Very strange.

There is a beautiful 11th century frieze with medallions on the facade of this church.  It is built over the house of a 1st century AD Roman senator named Pudens.  According to tradition, Pudens allowed St. Peter to stay here.  In the 2nd century, the site became a bath house, and in the 4th century, a church was built inside the baths.  This was known as Ecclesia Pudentiana (Church of Pudens).  In time, it was assumed that Pudentiana was a woman's name, and a life was created for her.  She became the sister of Prassede.  Even though both saints were declared invalid in 1969, they retained the names of the churches (Santa Pudenziana and Santa Prassede).  Be sure to check out the 4th century mosaic in the apse.

Built in 431 AD, the apse was rebuilt in the 13th century. Confession in front of the Papal Altar contains the presumed relics of the Nativity. Santa Maria Maggiore is also known as Santa Maria ad Praesepe (St. Mary of the Manger), Santa Maria ad Nives (St. Mary of the Snows), and Basilica Liberiana (named for its founder).  Under the altar is a crypt housing the remains of St. Matthais, who was the Apostle that was chosen to replace the vacancy left by Judas Iscariot.  In front of the confessio housing part of the manger is an outstanding kneeling statue of Pope Pius IX.  Sistine Chapel (not to be confused with the famed Sistine Chapel which is located at the Vatican); Tombs of Popes Pius V, Sixtus V, Paul V, Cardinal Rodriquez (1299), and Clement VIII.  The Baldacchino of the 1740s was built by Ferdinando Fuga.

Reconstructed in 822 AD. The Crypt (apply at the Sacristy) with sarcophagi and a 3rd century altar. Chapel of S. Zeno, one of the most important monuments (Byzantine) in Rome. Part of the altar was brought from Jerusalem in 1223. Said to be that to which Jesus was bound in the flagellation.  Not far from Santa Maria Maggiore, I had the privilege of seeing this beautiful basilica for the first time in 2002, and it is truly awesome.  The Cosmati flooring is spectacular and the Chapel of St. Zeno ceiling with its original mosaics are breathtaking.  I highly recommend seeing this basilica!

This is a very small church at the end of Stazione Termini along via Giovanni Giolitti and contains one of Bernini's early sculptures of the martyr Santa Bibiana (1626), the first fully clothed figure Bernini sculpted.  Note the statue is holding the cords supposedly used to beat her to death.  Bernini also constructed the facade, his first attempt at architecture.  The church itself was constructed over the ruins of the family palace.  The saint was buried here after being strapped to death with leaded cords during the persecution of Christians in 361-63 AD.  The column just inside the entrance to the church is said to be that to which Bibiana was strapped to.  The remains of her, her mother (Dafrosa), and her sister (Demetria) are in an alabaster urn below the altar.

Santi Apostoli, Piazza dei Santi Apostoli. 630a-noon and 4p-715p daily.  (Church of the Holy Apostles)

A 15th century church was built over the original 6th century one.  One of the most interesting features inside this church is Canova's massive Tomb of Pope Clement XIV with the Figures Humility and Modesty of (1789).  Also inside is Canova's memorial to engraver Giovanni Volpato of 1807.  The Tombs of Apostles James and Philip are in the crypt under the massive altarpiece by Domenico Muratori.  Also of special interest is the painting Rebel Angels by Giovanni Odazzi which give the 3D effect of actually falling from the sky.

This was one of the first churches in Rome to hold Christian services.  The building was rebuilt by Jacopo Sansovino after it burned down in 1519 and he added a single nave with many private chapels adorning the sides.  The nave holds the Tomb of Cardinal Giovanni Michiel and his nephew, Bishop Antonio Orso, also by Sansovino.

It is said that the translation of the name of this church is St. Mary's At the Meeting of Three Roads.  It boasts a fine example of 16th century Italian facade work.  Note that all the windows are false.  The ceiling frescoes inside the church are by Antonio Gherardi (1644-1702).  Over the years, the word Trivio has been amended to Trevi.  This is where the famed Trevi Fountain gets its name.  This very small church sits behind the famed Trevi Fountain on the left as you face the fountain.

The facade of this church is by M. Longhi and boasts six Roman columns, three on each side of the door and three overhead.  This church faces the famed Trevi Fountain.  The church was built in 1650.  It was commissioned by Cardinal Raimondo Mazzarino, whose coast of arms are in between the two sets of columns above the doorway.

This church was once one of the four towers that was part of the corner of the gigantic Baths of Diocletian and is round.  Contessa Caterina Nobili Sforza is entombed under the 18th century marble altar.  She is responsible for turning the tower into a church.  You will also note that the dome resembles the Pantheon in that the very top is open to permit light to enter the structure.  There are also statues of saints by Camillo Mariani (1567-1611) inside.  It is directly across the street from Santa Suzanna and around the corner from Santa Maria della Vittoria and the Moses Fountain.

This small church has the most exquisite interior made of roseate marble.  It is oval in design by Bernini and was built between 1658 and 1670 for the Jesuits.  There is a marble St. Stanislas Kostka by Pierre Legros (1666-1719) well worth seeing as well as the richly decorated dome.  It is alongside the Presidential Palace next to the Quirinale Gardens.

What is unique about this church is the dome is lit only by concealed windows.  It was designed by Borromini in 1634 (one of his very last works) and commissioned by the Spanish Trinitarians and completed in 1667.  The church is also known as San Carlino (dedicated to Cardinal Carlo Borromeo) and is so small it can fit into one of the piers of St. Peter's.  Borromini commited suicide in 1667 and in the crypt is reserved a chapel for him, but still remains empty.  Off the sacristy is a painting of Borromini wearing the Spanish Trinitarian cross as well.

This church was designed by Giacomo della Porta in 1580.  The dome is of particular importance.  Also contains the Tomb of St. Benoit-Joseph Labre, who died here in 1783 (left transept altar).  The clothes (actually tattered rags) he wore are well-preserved as relics.

Built in 1566 by Michelangelo who adapted the ancient Tepidarium of the Baths of Diocletian. The Central Nave is enormous - 290 feet long, 89 feet wide, and 92 feet high - with huge pillars.  The eight monolith red granite pillars are ancient. The Tomb of Marshal A. Diaz (1928) is also here.  Once inside, the interior is massive and quite beautiful.

This church is unique in that it has twin staircases leading to the entrance.  One of the chapels inside was done by Bernini (first chapel on the right) with a magnificent sculpture group of Mary Magdalene and Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane.  There is a gigantic fresco by Domenico Canuti (1620-84) that fills the ceiling called Apotheosis of St. Dominic.

Goti means Goths, who occupied Rome in the 6th century A.D. and the church was founded shortly after 470 A.D.  You will find the exquisite columns made of granite, which date from this time.  There is a 12th century tabernacle and a courtyard that was built around a well, now covered in ivy.  Quite striking.

Santa Maria della Vittoria, Via XX Settembre, 17. 630a-noon and 430p-630p daily. No cameras. (St. Mary of Victory)

By C. Maderno in 1620. If you are a Bernini follower, the fourth chapel contains the famous marble group, The Ecstasy of St. Teresa, (1646) and is a must-see.  Note the marble sculptures of patrons in box seats as though viewing a theatrical performance to the side of this masterpiece.

Built by Cardinal Antonio Barberini, who was Urban VIII's brother, in 1626.  Cardinal Barberini was a Capuchin friar.  He is buried is a simple grave under the altar where there is a tombstone with the inscription in Latin, "Here lies dust, ashes, nothing."  As churches go, this is a very plain one, unlike most of the churches in Rome which are very ornate.  Of special interest is is the macabre Capuchin crypts beneath the church (see below) which are incredible.

Capuchin Crypts.  Built in 1616. Five underground chapels with a macabre furnishing of the skeletons and bones of about 4,000 Capuchin friars in intricate ornate ceiling and wall Baroque patterns. An incredible sight.   Pictures can be found of these chapels on my Photo Gallery page.  Open summers 9a-noon and 3p-6p, winter 930a-noon and 3p-6p).  There are no cameras allowed and a 'small donation' is expected.  Postcards have been available for purchase.

Santa Suzanna, Piazza San Bernardo. 9a-noon, 4p-7p Mon-Sat, 10a-noon Sun.

The facade of this church was finished in 1603 by Carlo Maderno.  The church is built on the site that has been the spot where Christians have worshiped ever since the 4th century.  One of the most interesting things aby Santa Suzanna are the four frescoes that have been painted to resemble tapestries.  These were done by Baldassarre Croce (1558-1623).  This is also the Catholic church for Americans in Rome.

Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura (St. Agnes Outside the Wall), via Nomentana 349, Mon.-Sat. 9am-noon and 4-6pm Tues. and Sat., 4-6pm public holidays and Sundays.  Admission charge.

Built in the 4th century as a small sanctuary on catacombs where lay the remains of the saintly martyr.  Inside, impressive ruins, vast basilica, built by Constantia, daughter of Constantine.  Constantia had leprosy and it is rumored that she often prayed at the Tomb of St. Agnes here for healing from the disease.  Descend to the catacombs of St. Agnes (admission 9a-noon and 4p-6p). The catacombs are among the best preserved.  She was buried here in 304 A.D.  This group of buildings also include a covered cemetery.  In the apse is a gold mosaic of St. Agnes with a pope on each side.

This is a 4th century church with a breathtaking circular interior.  It was built as a mausoleum for Constantia and Helena, Constantine's daughters.  You will find the original porphyry sarcophagus of Constantia in the Vatican Museums (moved there in 1790) but a replica is in one of the niches.

This church is one of the four patriarchal churches of Rome (the other three are St. Peter's, San Giovanni in Laterano, and Santa Maria Maggiore).  It is pretty far out so I recommend taking the Metro to San Paolo and it is across the street.  The original basilica (4th century) was destroyed by fire in 1823 and was rebuilt.  Only a few of the original fragments remain.  Of note is the marble canopy by Arnolfo di Cambio (1285) which is over the high altar  The confessio below the altar contains the Tomb of St. Paul.  Be sure to check out the spiral columns of the cloisters which were built by the Vassalletto family in 1214 and survived the fire.  Also the beautiful gold mosaics by Pietro Cavallini which were originally on the facade and were moved to the nave.

St. Paul's design is that of a five-aisled church, unlike most of Rome's basilicas, which were built having three aisles.  Separating the central nave from the four side aisles are 80 colossal granite columns.  Above these columns all the way around the interior of the Basilica are mosaic portraits of all the Popes, from the first to the present.  Only the current pope's portrait is illuminated.  Tradition tells that when this Basilica runs out of space for these portraits of the popes, the world will end.  There are only eight vacant circles left as of 2003.  If you know the story, this is quite an eerie feeling.

This church is located outside the eastern wall near the Campo Verano cemetery.  St. Lorenzo was slowly burned to death in 258 A.D.  The first church was built over where he was buried and was rebuilt in 576.  Next to it is the Church of the Virgin Mary (5th century) and both of these churches have been integrated into a single structure.  This was accomplished between the 8th and 13th centuries.  Of note is the grand bell tower.  Allied bombers badly damaged this church during World War II, but it has been restored.  St. Lorenzo's remains are under the altar of the original 6th century church.