Though this website is devoted to my first love, Rome, I have gotten many requests for information on Florence, which happens to be my second favorite city in Italy.  I know quite a bit about Florence (Firenze), as I have spent significant time there as well.  It is the only other city in Italy with which I have extensive knowledge, and I would be happy to try and answer any questions you may have should you be going there for a visit.  I suggest that the first thing you do (as with traveling to Rome) is to avail yourself of a map of Florence.  Florence is much smaller than Rome and much easier to navigate.  While there in late September 2001, I found a few places that I felt needed to be included on my website.  They are listed below.  I will put some pictures here of the places listed that I recently took snapshots of once I have had a chance to scan them into my computer and upload them on the website.  In the meantime, I want to share what I have found.

IN TODAY'S WORLD OF TERRORIST ACTIVITY . . .

Not to alarm anyone, but in today's world, it is always better to be as aware as one can be while traveling.  I highly recommend that if you are planning a trip, you keep up with the most current information as provided by the Department of State in it's travel warnings, no matter where you are planning to travel to.  For your convenience, I have provided both a link to the Department of State Travel Warnings section (click on the country you are interested in) and the U.S. Mission to Italy websites on my Links page.
 

Getting to Florence.  Florence does have an airport, but I have never flown into it.  I have always visited Florence in connection with trips to Rome.  I have always gone via express train, which takes about an hour-and-a-half between the two cities.  Believe it or not, in the U.S., it is cheaper to get your train tickets (always get first-class only) when you get your airline tickets from your travel agent.  Don't ask me why, but it is.  For first-class passengers on trains, there will be a surcharge imposed in Rome for the first-class ticket, but it is worth it.  There are long lines at Rome's Stazione Termini and it can be quite chaotic, so be prepared and be patient.  Always keep your luggage with you at all times or you may find it abruptly missing!

Lodging in Florence.  There is only one hotel that I would even consider staying at in Florence, and that is the Hotel Porta Rossa, via Porta Rossa 19, 50123, Florence.  Tel. 39 (055) 28.75.51, Fax 39 (055) 28.21.79.  (It is located at number 1 on the map.)  This lovely hotel was built in 1386 as a hotel and is the second oldest hotel in Italy.  It has a beautifully vaulted entrance hall, stained-glass ceiling, beautiful furnishings throughout, and a very friendly staff waiting to serve you.  The bedrooms are all different, with some being quite large.  Some have lovely frescoed ceilings as well.  The Hotel Porta Rossa has 85 rooms, all with baths (70 with showers), and each room is decorated differently.  Single-room rates are available as well as rooms for more than two people (or an extra bed can be put in a double room).  The hotel has an elevator, disabled person accessibility, TVs in all rooms, and credit cards are accepted.  This hotel is quite reasonable, is elegant, and has the best Continental breakfast I have ever had at a hotel anywhere.  Except for their Continental breakfasts, there is no restaurant in the hotel; however, there is a lovely bar and sitting area where you can enjoy good conversation and drinks.  There are quite a few nice restaurants within a few blocks surrounding the hotel.

It is also quite conveniently located, only three or four blocks from Piazza della Signoria, Palazzo Vecchio, and the Uffizi Gallery, and a couple of blocks from the Ponte Vecchio.  It is within walking distance to all major attractions as well.  I highly recommend Hotel Porta Rossa for your stay while in Florence.  You will not be disappointed, I assure you.  If you choose this hotel for your accommodations, please tell them you saw it mentioned on my website (All Roads Lead To Roma).

Restaurants.  While in Florence this time, my daughter and I found this absolutely wonderful restaurant called Osteria del Porcellino.  It is located just down from the Hotel Porta Rossa near the Mercato Nuovo (described below and located at number 2 on the map) on a small street to the right of via Porta Rossa a block long called via Val di Lamona.  Walking down via Porta Rossa to the next intersection toward the Mercato Nuovo, you will come to via Pellicceria.  Turn to your right there and a couple of doors down on your left is via Val di Lamona.  Facing the Mercato Nuovo on this small street, they are located mid-block on the right, at No. 7/9r.  The atmosphere is wonderful, they are open from 7pm-1:30am, they have a great menu with lots of good food, and their staff is very friendly.  Among my daughter's and my favorites were Filetto all Aceto Balsamico (Beef Fillet with Balsamic Vinegar) and Tagliata di Manzo alla Birra Scura (Porter's Ale Beef Cut in Slices).  They also have great pasta dishes such as Ravioli alla Caterina dei Medici and Pappa di Melanzane e Porcini (Eggplant and Porcini Mushroom Soup).  We ate there practically every night during our stay.  They are very reasonable.  As I said before, their menu is quite large and varied, with Antipasti (Appetizers), Primi Piatti (First Course), Pesce (Fish), Carne (Meat), Piatti Vegetariani (Vegetarian Plates), Dolci del'Osteria (Desserts), and a large wine menu.  If you want good food and a great atmosphere, I highly recommend this wonderful restaurant.  Be sure to tell Enzo you saw mention of their restaurant on Stuardt's website, "All Roads Lead To Roma".

For lunch, might I suggest Queen Victoria, which is located at via Por Santa Maria, 34/r (on the left as you walk toward the Ponte Vecchio, located at number 4 on the map), after you pass the small street jetting off to the left that leads to Piazza della Signoria (where you have a great photo opp of the Palazzo Vecchio).  It is not a fancy restaurant, but they do have good food, and it is very reasonable and quite filling.  The marquee is large across the top of the entrance, in green with white lettering.  I have had many wonderful lunches at Queen Victoria.

Gelato.  Like Rome, Florence has its share of gelaterias.  One of the best in my estimation is located across from Queen Victoria on via Por Santa Maria called La Bottega del Gelato Bar.  It has a vast array of wonderful gelato (try the caramel and chocolate chip!) and is open quite late at night.  (It is located at number 5 on the map.)

Leather and Souvenirs.  Florence is known for it's leather.  For some great prices on leather goods and souvenirs, try the Mercato Nuovo (which means "New Market" - located at number 3 on the map - click on number 5 above to get to the map and look at number 3).  It is in an old open-air basilica-type structure at the corner of via Porta Rossa and via Calimala.  Via Calimala is a wide street connecting Piazza della Repubblica with the world-famed Ponte Vecchio (Via Calimala becomes via Por Santa Maria near Piazza della Signoria and connects onto the Ponte Vecchio).  The Mercato Nuovo has many vendors with their portable carts that have fine leather goods, tee-shirts, and neat souvenir items.

Along the left side of the Palazzo Vecchio in Piazza della Signoria is another row of portable stalls that carry souvenir items, including leather goods, leather, and tee-shirts.  It is only the length of the one block along via di'Gondi (located at number 8 on the map).

Another wonderful place to get leather (where you can bargain with the vendors) starts in Piazza di San Lorenzo and extends down via del Canto de'Nelli for several blocks on both sides of the street.  Here, you will find literally hundreds of portable stalls, the majority of them carrying leather items, with some carrying jewelry, stationery goods, scarves, tee-shirts, silk ties, and other souvenir items.  While in the area, you must see the Basilica di San Lorenzo and the Medici Chapels.

There is another leather goods place, but it is quite expensive.  However, the leather is high-grade and are made by monks at the Basilica di Santa Croce.  Their store is located inside the Basilica.  You go all the way to the front to the High Altar and turn to your right and go into the Souvenir Shop off the central nave.  Go through another door and through the cloisters to the leather shop.  All proceeds from the sale of leather goods go to the monastery.  As I said, it is a lot more expensive, but very well-made items.

Another leather shop that is wonderful, but on the expensive side, is Papini.  It has been in business for many, many years, and is along the Arno between the Uffizi Gallery and the Ponte Vecchio located at Lung. Archibusieri, 10-12r (located at number 6 on the map).  They have a website located at http://www.papinileather.com and you should check them out.  People place orders through their store from all over the world.  Again, tell them you saw mention of Papini on my website.

Cambio (Exchange Booth).  Every time I have been in Florence, I have only used one Cambio (Exchange Booth) because it gives the best prices in Florence and the commission fee is only three percent instead of the normal 11.90 percent charged by the other cambios.  It is along the right side of the Palazzo Vecchio between it and the Uffizi Gallery (located at     number 7 on the map).  You go under the Vasari Corridor (overhead walkway) that connects Palazzo Vecchio to the Uffizi Gallery and on the right side of the street, the first very small shop is the Cambio (Exchange Booth) run by my friend, Carlo, at via della Ninna, 3.  Be sure to tell him you saw mention of his Cambio on my website (All Roads Lead To Roma).  (NOTE:  In October 2002, I received an email from one of my website visitors, and she tells me that my friend's cambio is still there but has relocated across the street from where I mention it is.  That means that it is on the Palazzo Vecchio side of via della Ninna and not on the Uffizi Gallery side of the street.  Next time I go to Florence, I will take new pictures.)

Wine Shop.  My recommendation for wines is a little shop across the Ponte Vecchio near Pitti Palace called Toscana Mia.  Though small, it has a wonderful array of wines and price levels plus wine accessories, packaged pasta, etc.  Tell them you saw mention of Toscana Mia on my website.  It is quite easy to get to from the Ponte Vecchio.  After you cross the world-famed bridge, it goes onto via Guicciardini.  You follow via Guicciardini around to just before it opens onto the entrance to the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens (on the left).  A few doors before you get to Pitti Palace on the left side of the street, you will find Toscana Mia.  The exact address is via Guicciardini, 57/r.

Gold and Jewelry.  Florence is also known for its gold and fine jewelry.  My favorite place to find gold and other jewelry items by far is The Gold Corner, which is located in Piazza Santa Croce directly across the street from the Basilica di Santa Croce on the right corner as you face the basilica, at Piazza Santa Croce, 15r, 50122 Firenze (Tel. 055-241971, FAX 055-2478437).  They have a wonderful staff and a very large collection of gold items, including every type of gold chain and bracelet imaginable.  They also carry a vast amount of jewelry items.  They offer a 15% discount if you pay cash.

Another nice little jewelry shop (where I purchased an exquisite garnet cross) is called DeMatteisII.  It is located on via Nazionale, 56r, on the left-hand side as you are walking toward the Arno.  It is a very small shop, but they have some beautiful high-end jewelry.  It is located not far from the Medici Chapels and is well worth your time.

Swarovski Crystal.  While going to the Santa Maria Novella train station one day, just off Piazza Carlo Goldoni, which is at the intersection of Ponte alla Carraia (two bridges down from the Ponte Vecchio) that crosses the Arno, I found the breathtaking Swarovski crystal shop located at via della Vigna Nuova 91r.  They have some of the most beautiful crystal items I have ever seen and if you are in the neighborhood, you should definitely stop by for a look.  You will fall in love with the small shop and will have to have one of their beautiful crystal items.  They take credit cards as well.  Again, tell them you saw mention of the shop on my website.

Must-see Sights in Florence.  I am constantly getting inquiries about including side trips to Florence when visiting Rome, is there enough time, can I see very much, etc.  Unlike Rome, Florence is much smaller in area and the major sights can be seen with limited time.  Florence is unique because you can cut the city into quarters.  I would get a good guidebook and a map and list all the places you wish to see, jotting down the times they are open and the days they are closed.  As with Rome, different places are closed different days.  If you plan carefully, using this quarter grid, you can eliminate backtracking and see everything you want to see with relative ease.  The key is planning before you go.

If you wish to include Florence with your trip to Rome, and you can squeeze in four or five days for Florence, here is a list of my must-see sights:   Santa Croce (the Basilica where Galileo, Dante, and Michelangelo among others are buried); Casa Buonarroti (Michelangelo's house which is near Santa Croce); the Uffizi Gallery and Palazzo Vecchio in Piazza della Signoria; the Royal Apartments and Palatine Gallery in Pitti Palace across the Arno; the world-famed Ponte Vecchio (a wonderful photo perspective of the Ponte Vecchio can be had from the next bridge over called Ponte Santa Trinita or from the Arno Corridor of the Great Hall of the Statues inside the Uffizi Gallery); Orsanmichele; San Lorenzo, Michelangelo's Staircase, and the Biblioteca upstairs; Medici Chapels; Santa Maria Novella; Il Duomo and Battisterio; Galleria dell'Accademia (where Michelangelo's "David" is); San Marco, and ss. Annunziata.  Be aware that you can no longer take photos of Michelangelo's famed statue of "David" for security reasons so be sure to purchase postcards and the book on the Accademia in the souvenir shop.

If you have more time, Boboli Gardens is lovely (the gardens behind Pitti Palace) and is gigantic with wonderful views of Florence from the top of the gardens; Santa Maria del Carmine and the Brancacci Chapel; Santo Spirito; the Bargello (a former prison turned into a wonderful museum); and whatever else you may wish to see.  A bit further out and behind Boboli Gardens along the Arno is Piazzale Michelangelo with spectacular panoramic views of Florence.